Dior Spring-Summer 2020
It has already been said that the real beginning of Fashion Week Paris is the first seconds of the Dior show. It was no different this time, too – Maria Grazia Chiuri created a collection that is more than just beautiful clothes. It’s an environmental manifesto.
The Dior brand takes up the subject of sustainable development and states in no uncertain terms that only respect for diversity and nature can save us in the face of an ecological disaster. Environmental change and the destruction of nature are undeniable and its effects are already being felt. So what is the point of creating fashion in the face of it? Is there really a need? Chiuri seems to be talking: “Yes, so that she can talk about important things like a press release and so that she can be practical and serve us for years.
The designer took inspiration from old family albums by Christian Dior – from there she pulled out Catherine Dior, the real Miss Dior, who fought in the resistance movement during the war and managed to get out of the concentration camp. After the end of World War II, Catherine devoted herself to plants and became a valued gardener and botanist. Maria Grazia Chiuri juxtaposes the life story of her sister Dior with the picture of today’s world and treats her as a metaphor that cannot be more literal.
That’s why models at the show seem to emerge from the darkness and look ahead through dark glasses or roundabouts of straw hats. There is nothing to be happy about, and we have a lot of work ahead of us, so that we don’t see trees as props only during entertainment shows.
The silhouettes presented by Dior correspond perfectly with what the designer of the brand seems to tell us – yes, they are clothes creating new trends, but safe enough that we will not want to exchange them with the coming of the new season. In our extensive collection we saw feathery sweatshirts, tie-dye jackets and coats in earthy colours, checkered jackets and sets, striped sweaters plus shirts in cloudless sky colour. What nature also offers us are the main visual inspirations of the collection. However, the most impressive were the delicate, sometimes even translucent dresses and skirts decorated with floral prints and appliqués. Especially in these ethereal dresses you can see the timelessness on which Chiuri depends: the dress, just like nature, must stay with us forever, and the choice is in our hands.
The designer collaborated with Coloco, a Parisian collective dedicated to urban regeneration and “environmental design”, to create collections in the spring and summer of 2020. Hence the incredible scenery and dark lined forest avenue on the catwalk. But don’t worry – the trees that added splendour to the show missed the trash can after the lights went out. At this point, as promised by Chiuri, they are probably already planted all over Paris.